Expedition to the Sudd

Lulled by the tranquillity of flowing water and tall, swaying papyrus, I watched a dugout glide through the shadows. With glistening splashes from his oar and perching on the stern, a young man traversed the liquid highway, hugging the bank of vegetation which slowed the current and eased his up-river passage.

Roosting cormorants dotted the tops of drooping papyrus. Ever watchful for potential threats, they rest here overnight, in relative safety, before leaving to hunt during the day. The fishing ability of these birds is excellent. Food is plentiful in the Nile waters and cormorants will forage in shallows, or dive well below the surface, to catch aquatic prey.

Nestled between reedbeds, with towering papyrus as a backdrop, a simple, thatched structure serves as a temporary shelter for the dry season in the Sudd. It stands upon ground, raised slightly above water level and whisps of smoke enhance its fragile appearance. The fishermen have been busy gutting the night-time catch and hanging it to dry in the sun, using the smoke to ward off flies and mosquitoes from themselves as well as the fish.

An unnatural splash of colour amongst the vegetation jarred the senses. A blue mosquito net, brightened by shafts of morning light, draped from strings attached to branches, next to another, similarly slung. These are two of many, which have been donated by the World Health Organisation, to help reduce malaria infections in Africa. In deep shadows cast by the trees, a young man sat upon the ground, concentrating on making a fishing net.

A young Dinka couple and their three small children reside at this more permanent island home. They serenely flow through daily life, much like the constant river nearby. Tending children, net-making, collecting and drying reeds for mats, are regular routines. A large, wooden mortar with a log for a pestle, is ready for use to husk and dehull grain, before being ground with a smooth rock.

Long papyrus stalks are cut from nearby reed banks, halved lengthwise and dried in the sun. They are then laid out neatly and stitched together with string, creating mats. This is women’s work and dextrous hands move elegantly, making the craft look effortless.

Unloading cattle from a barge requires a team effort from male family members. The father, as headman, supervises the event to make sure his cherished cows are not harmed. His sons, aware of the injury horns can inflict, cautiously urge the beasts to leap onto the island. A young boy from the third generation, watches and learns what will be expected of him in years to come.

The opposing curves of horns, sandwiched between the horizontal far bank of reeds and the oblique angle of the boat’s gunnel, portray the restlessness and confinement of the animals. During the dry season, when grazing land gets sparce at the villages on the mainland, cattle are transported to the islands to feed on reeds.

Without hesitation, a young Dinka dived into the swift current to herd back two of the new arrivals, which were swept away. I photographed a series of images, with a sick feeling that I may be recording a tragedy. With relief, this final photograph shows the determination and exhaustion, of both the rescuer and the animal, as they approach the safety of land.

The afternoon is rest-time for fishermen, before they go out to fish at night. Sitting quietly amongst the reeds, near his campfire to stave off flying insects, this young Dinka looks totally at peace. Like the White Nile River, the smoke flows in gentle swirls, following a path that nature dictates.

As evening comes, the heat subsides. With daily chores completed and the cattle tethered, this is the time of day when family and friends gather to chat. Children play and climb trees, looking out for passers-by.

Grey clouds promise rain, but still the African sunset burns the sky. Two Dinka glance towards the island, as they slowly paddle their dugout through painted waters. The scene is tranquil, with harmony between humans and nature, in this amazing place called the Sudd.

South Sudan

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